{"id":993,"date":"2012-04-24T08:33:05","date_gmt":"2012-04-24T08:33:05","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/jjamwal.in\/blog\/?p=993"},"modified":"2012-04-24T08:33:05","modified_gmt":"2012-04-24T08:33:05","slug":"mcleodganj-birthday-graves","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/jjamwal.in\/yayavar\/mcleodganj-birthday-graves\/","title":{"rendered":"McLeodganj: Birthday and old graves"},"content":{"rendered":"

This is going to be my first ever attempt to write a travel diary. I haven’t tried anything like this before and don’t know how it’s going to come out. I think writing one single post for each day spent will be the right way to do it. Anyhow, here it goes :)<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

I wanted to go on a solo trip somewhere for a long time and 1st week of April seemed like a good opportunity. \u00a0But I had no idea where to go until last week of March. All I knew that the place should be mountainous and not crowded. \u00a0McLeodganj seemed to be a good enough place and after thinking about it for a bit I chose it as my destination. Getting there from Delhi takes approximately 12 hours by road. I took a Volvo bus which was full of tourists from all over the world. It wasn’t very comfortable journey but I managed to doze through most of it.<\/p>\n

I woke up as the bus stopped at the town’s bus stand just before 6 am. As I opened my eyes, I was greeted by the sight of mountains covered with lush greenery and dozens of crows cawing loudly. Unlike their city cousins, these are a bit larger and completely black.\u00a0 \u00a0Gathering my belongings, I got out of bus and stretched my limbs. First thing that hit me was the cool breeze. It was colder outside than the air conditioned bus ! That’s one of the reasons why I love mountains. <3<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

I called the hotel I had talked to earlier for a room. \u00a0Someone picked up the \u00a0phone and asked me to take taxi to some address. As it happened, the hotel I had asked for after checking on net was full and only available rooms were in another hotel, right in middle of the city. I didn’t like \u00a0the \u00a0dinky room and it’s not-worth-it price. The place was full of hotels and lodges and I started looking for another one on foot. After walking for \u00a0a while down a steep slope, I came across one which I liked. The place had a great view of Dharmshala town in the valley below on one side and snow covered distant peaks on other. \u00a0Found out that only empty rooms available were with a kitchen attached. Although I had no need for one, I just took it without much haggling and further search. After a hot shower and a short nap, I got ready and stepped out to explore the place.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"McLeodganj:<\/a>
McLeodganj: View from hotel<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Luckily this hotel was very near to my first destination, Dalai Lama’s temple Tsuglag Khang. \u00a0I had to walk up (climb up is a more apt description) a rather steep road to get there. Although it was just a short walk of less than 500 meters, I realised that I needed much more stamina than I had just to walk around. For that, I needed to eat. Found a small \u00a0eating joint and climbed up the stairs to be greeted by the sight of Tibetan monks having breakfast and watching some soap on a Tibetan channel. A Tibetan lady along with \u00a0another young Tibetan girl were the only staff. \u00a0I ordered a chocolate flavoured banana shake with some kind of fruit pie.<\/p>\n

As soon as I finished, my phone started to ring. Friends and family calling to congratulate me on my birthday. The thing had slipped off my mind entirely. \u00a0Seemed like my phone had been mostly non-operational during the night long journey. \u00a0 Keeping the phone glued to my ear I walked around the market a little which was just starting to open up. The place was full of posters and slogans asking for liberation of Tibet. One \u00a0remarkable thing was number of \u00a0people who had lost their lives while fighting for their cause.\u00a0 Pictures of one Tibetan activist, Jamyang Yeshi who had set fire to himself a few days back in \u00a0Delhi were every where.<\/p>\n

\"Buddha<\/a>
Buddha idol in TsuglagKhang temple<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

After a few minutes of walking around, I entered the gates of Tsuglag Khang temple, Namgyal monastery complex. The place is big, full of people and still peaceful. As I entered I saw some people, many of them foreigners engaged\u00a0 in Buddhist prayer rituals. Main prayers are \u00a0performed in Tsuglakhang complex which has prayer wheels \u00a0around it’s walls. This was the first time, I had the chance to see them for real and spin. \u00a0Apart from Buddha, there was an idol of \u00a0Padmasambhava who is credited with bringing Tantric or Vajrayana Buddhism into Tibet. Interesting thing is that he was born as a Hindu brahmin in what is known as Swat valley in Pakistan. \u00a0All the idols are made of metal and very beautiful as you can se in the pictures. One exception was a Buddha idol made of wood encased \u00a0in a glass case visible in the photo above. Right by side, there’s Kalchakra temple which is as impressive as \u00a0Tsuglakhang. It’s walls are covered with intricately\u00a0 detailed and beautiful Tibetan murals. Lord Budhha is the presiding deity in both places, but both places have beautiful idols of \u00a0other gods and ancient Tibetan leaders.. \u00a0Try clicking on picture to take a better look. Unfortunately, photography inside this temple was prohibited.<\/p>\n

\"Padmasambhava<\/a>
Padmasambhava idol in Tsuglagkhang temple<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

After spending some time there, I came out and walked around the market which had finally opened up to business. After a walk of 15-20 minutes I reached the main town square, right next to the bus stand. Following signboards and asking a few people I took the path to church of \u00a0 St. John in the Wilderness. It’s about 30-35 minutes walk from the city and very picturesque. The road is flanked by dense growth of trees on both sides and walking on it is a pleasure. \u00a0I’ve been living in ugly cities for so long, the place seemed like \u00a0heaven. \u00a0I stopped numerous times to enjoy the views or look at some bird. \u00a0A fair amount of vehicles do travel on that road, but it’s almost negligible as compared to a city like Delhi.<\/p>\n

\"Road<\/a>
Road to the church<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

After that walk, view of church from it’s gate was surreal and almost eerie. Path from 1st gate to church is flanked on both sides by old graves and beautiful big\u00a0 trees.<\/p>\n

\"St.<\/a>
St. John in the Wilderness church<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Sunshine reaches the ground only in patches and in this setting, the black church seems to have a presence of its own. It was closed at the time, so couldn’t get a view of inside. ( I saw it on another day). It isn’t an architectural marvel as some people say. It’s just an ordinary church made of black stone, but in very beautiful place and ambiance.\u00a0 \u00a0I spent some time walking in between graves and trying to read the inscriptions on tomb stones. Most were in a state of disrepair due to passage of time and mostly illegible. \u00a0 Almost all were of colonial British officers and their family members .<\/p>\n

\"Inside<\/a>
Inside graveyard<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>
The small 'waterfall'<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Wandering around, I came across a small path which lead to slightly bigger graveyard, but with less trees right next to the road. A \u00a0small brook flowed through it along ruins of a small man made path made of stones. Curious about where it goes, I walked down the path. But it disappeared completely after just a few meters. Undeterred I kept walking down the slope along the brook which was partially paved with stones. \u00a0There was no semblance of any kind of path or trail, \u00a0but I kept following that brook down. After struggling through a bunch of dense bushes, trees and slippery ground, I finally stopped at a point where water from the brook formed a waterfall 2 feet high. Not much, but better than nothing \u00a0:D .<\/p>\n

I rested there for a while listening to bird calls. Trying to locate the birds themselves was almost impossible for me and I gave up trying to locate them visually after a while. It was really quiet there except for \u00a0those birds and gentle sound of that small waterfall. After some time, I got up and traced my steps back to the graveyard. Walked around the graves again, taking some pictures. By then it was almost 1:30 and I was starting to feel hungry. There was no shop or place to eat nearby (thankfully), so I decided to walk back to McLeodganj in order to get something for lunch.<\/p>\n

\"View<\/a>
View of graveyard from road<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

I think it’s been a long post already and I have \u00a0finished just half of my first day. In nutshell, I spent better part of my birthday wandering among old broken graves and trying to read the inscriptions. Interesting to some people, I suppose. The more interesting part hasn’t even begun yet :O<\/p>\n

I think, I should be \u00a0more brief in future. Will write about the rest later in next post.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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I haven’t tried anything like this before and don’t know how it’s going to come out. I think writing one single post for each day spent will be the right way to do it. 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