This is going to be a short entry about our trip to Kasol in first week of May 2016. I still haven’t finished writing two more travelogues, so thought of finishing up the shorter ones first.
This time we had wifey’s cousin and her husband for company. Lets call them SS and AM. After the last trip with one other cousin (ACB from Spiti trip), I was somewhat wary of traveling with other people who have no idea about how we like to travel. It’s also because the Spiti trip “scared” ACB so much that he has sworn off almost all trips with us which involve walking for more than 1 hour in a day. Can’t say that I blame him. But Kasol was supposed to be a place to relax and just wander around and the plans were made with all four of us going there for 4-5 days.

first day in Kasol

But as with our every other trip, almost all the logistics were left to last minute and we had to do some last minute calls to get a hotel. Since the trip was supposed to be a relaxing one, a comparatively better hotel was essential. The place I booked actually turned out to be so bad that I created a Tripadvisor account just to write a long review against it. More on that maybe later.
Anyhow the trip began with a bus ride till Kullu from where we took a taxi from near airport. The taxi drivers there did their best to convince us to take all 4 of us in a small Alto car because it was the turn of that taxi at the taxi-stand. We insisted and got a bigger Maruti van though after a bit of stubbornness. The ride to Kasol from Kullu was uneventful but bumpy for most part. We found our hotel Deep Forest (don’t go there, ever.) and hoped to get some rest and hot breakfast before making plans for the day. The 2 room cottage that I had booked for Rs 6000 per day turned out to be an absolute disaster and I have written a fairly long review on this Tripadvisor link. Whoever reads this must boycott this place.

Route to Graahan

 

After a cold shower and some barely edible breakfast, rest of the folks stayed in for some sleep, while I picked up my camera and went on a walk around the town. Spending 20-25 minutes there made me realise  that I was not going to like that place much. Lots of college kids or young people from nearby cities on a break kind of crowd were everywhere. Then there were pilgrims to Manikaran Gurudwara passing through who make a mess in the town quite often. I finished walking around most of the town in about 30-35 minutes and ended up back near the hotel. A trail started from there going upstream alongside river. Since there was nothing better to do, I started walking in that direction. The wooded area nearby had some people resting and talking and further up there was a small campsite and a stone hut. I went past it along the trail alongside river following 2-3 water pipes. They went on further till the trail ended. I actually went further up till they path ended and had to retrace my steps back to the hut. Another rocky path from there went up the hill so I took that. After spending so much time in concrete filled hot cities, any place with trees, running water and nature was a relief. So I kept walking on the trail. There were some people working on a small clearing near the river, probably planting vegetables but I didn’t go there to ask.

View from the trail

View from the trail

The path was nice with thick tree cover all over and a lots of birds, insects and spider webs. After climbing downhill on other side, the path was relatively flat and much easier to walk on. I had seen no body else on the trail till now apart from the people mentioned earlier, so when I came across the first person coming from other direction I asked him about where the path led to. He said Graahan which I misheard as Graan which is Dogri for village. I asked him again name of the place and got the same answer and him looking at me with a confused expression. I thanked him and moved on and found two men carrying some heavy load on their backs walking in same direction as myself. It was them that I understood that village itself is called Graahan and was about 2-3 hours walk away. Adjusting according to pahadi time, it meant about 3 hours and 30 minutes more for me. So visiting the place was not possible considering I had company. If I was alone like my some other trips, then I could’ve gone there, but not that time. The time was just a few minutes before noon and I thought of walking a bit further before heading back. There was a small wooden bridge further up ahead over shallow stream. I rested there and had a drink of cold water. There were a few goats just across the bridge and a shepherd dog sleeping. I found the shepherd and asked him about the duration of walk village ahead. He answered the same, 2-3 hours walk. The man I had met 45 minutes before had said the same thing. So much for asking directions from pahadi people.

Shephard lady

He then started asking me about how is AAP doing in Delhi ? I was taken aback and asked what he meant exactly. He answered that he is reading so much about the good work being done by AAP in newspapers and was curious about it. He looked quite surprised that the “articles” he was reading were ads not news and had a lightbulb moment. I had little desire to talk about that ass Kanjriwaal and his chandaal party and had a bit of small talk with him. For someone who spent most of his time in jungle, he seemed to be quite aware of things going around in the world, mostly by radio and newspapers, I think.

View from a bridge

There was no cellphone coverage and it stayed that way till the stone hut. I arrived back to the hotel at around 1 pm. Rest of people were awake and we decided to look for a new hotel and have lunch. AM had short listed a few restaurants from Tripadvisor and surprisingly they turned out to be quite good. We first visited a place called Jim Morrison Cafe and had a long leisurely lunch. Me and wifey love these kind of places where you sit on ground and service is slow. I told them about the trail and village up ahead and they seemed excited about it. It was decided that we’d walk to Graahan early next morning and come back by evening. We then walked around the town looking for a new hotel and finalised one right next to the one where we were staying. Actually the hotel we actually ended up with was finalised next day, but that’s not that important. Anyhow, to make long story short, we planned to leave early morning and come back by evening after hiking till Graahan, a total of 16 km.

This plant is used as cattle feed

This plant is used as cattle feed

But as happens in all my vacations, we woke up late, spent too much time on checking out and breakfast and started our hike at noon. I didn’t want to spend another minute in Kasol, so I was just thankful that we could manage to leave at last. The walk was supposed to be pretty uneventful. Altitude is not that high, 8 km is not such a long distance, scenery is nice and the participants not that old. But it turned out that I had not made myself amply clear. I realised too late that SS and Am had little idea about what trouble they had gotten themselves in to. They had probably expected a long leisurely walk through a wooded area but it was a quite a bit of challenge for them as they had very little experience. But they kept on walking without complaining. It was only after walking for about 3 hours that we had a discussion about going further up or going back, SS said that we should walk on further as we had already walked for so long and we could spend the night in some guest house there. I was only too happy to accept. There was a small issue about our luggage in the hotel and we had told them that we’d be back at night, but we decided to do something about that later. So we started walking with Graahan in mind. Going back to Kasol same day was out of question.

An old house in Graahan village

An old house in Graahan village

 

We met quite a few people from village as well as some foreign tourists walking on the route which was mostly just a trail going upstream along the river. SS and AM were quite tired after walking for 4 hours and we had to stop frequently. We stopped at one point from where we could see some house in the village at top of a mountain before making the final approach. That turned out to be the most tiring section but we managed to finish it and reached outskirts. We were still outside the village when owner of a guesthouse invited us to his place to check it out. Looking at how rest of the group was doing, I decided to check that out first and found it to be fairly good. Rest of the people soon joined up and chose to stay there rather than walk further up to main village. So we dropped our stuff, took off our shoes and asked for something to eat and drink. AM was pretty tired and started napping.

Children even here know fancy ways to pose for camera

Children even here know fancy ways to pose for camera

After some time, me and wifey took off to explore the village on our own. Unlike other places, it was pretty old fashioned with most houses made of wood and stone , narrow streets and poor cleanliness. A local dog took upon the duty of following us around and kept on getting in fights with other dogs. There wasn’t much to see in village at the time as it was getting pretty dark, so we headed back once it started drizzling. On the way, I noticed something glowing like a firefly , but went I went closer, it turned out to be some kind of brown scaly worm with an illuminated bottom. I had never seen anything like this and was pretty excited. Tried to take a few pictures but didn’t get any good ones due to rain and darkness. While coming back, we met uncle of the guesthouse’s owner who walked with us back to the guesthouse. We went to sleep soon after having dinner.

The glowing insect

The glowing insect

Next morning, AM decided to stay back and rest while me, wifey and SS walked up the trail leading to Sar Pass. We were told that there were a few waterfalls on the route. We found first one without much trouble and spent almost a hour there. Wifey and SS then wanted to go back but I dragged them along to the 2nd one. They reluctantly followed till the point we could hear the waterfall, but then sat down like stubborn mules refusing to go any further. I was told that I was free to do whatever I want while they sit down and chat which was fine by me. The next waterfall was even more impressive albeit a bit more difficult to reach. I went on further but getting to base or top of waterfall was almost impossible due to flow of water. The trail went on further ahead and looked quite challenging but we were not going any further. I reached back to the two women and we started walking back to the guest house. Before leaving in morning, we were trying to call our hotel but all of their phone numbers were wrong or not working. There was no cell phone coverage. So we had to use a WLL (wireless in local loop) phone from the guesthouse which had to be taken to a specific point uphill where it could catch some signals. But nothing worked. After lunch and some rest, all 4 of us walked to the village, found a cafe and had some tea and snacks. Initially, we had planned to stay in Graahan only for a few hours, but ended up liking it so much that we spent 2 nights there.

A friendly puppy

A friendly puppy

Next morning we started our walk back to Kasol same way we had come up. The walk was pretty uneventful apart from a large group of hikers (45-50 people) starting their journey towards the Sar Pass. Once at hotel, we found our luggage as it is and hotel owner pretty chill about it. There isn’t anything interesting to write about after this as it’s all the general touristy stuff of going to a bunch of restaurants and places. SS and AM visited Manikaran Gurudwara next day while me and wifey had a long lazy breakfast  before heading back to Delhi.

The second bigger waterfall

The second bigger waterfall

Just to end this post, few points about Kasol. These are not particularly nice about the place or the people who visit there:

1) Majority of local Indian tourists as well as pilgrims passing through are assholes of first order. They’ll litter, smoke, drink anywhere they want and never clean up after themselves. “Pilgrims” coming back from Manikaran gurdwara can be seen getting drunk on their way back in Kasol.
2) Most of people visit Kasol just to smoke pot and drugs are easily available. I don’t condemn or condone it in anyway, but almost every other person you make an eye contact for more than 1 second will try to sell you some drugs.
3) Local shopkeepers do their best to fleece tourists and everything is sold 10-40% above MRP. Supposedly because Kasol is a remote place even with a metaled road. Funnily, Graahan which doesn’t have any road, had the same prices.
4) Kasol was a destination for foreigners and laidback tourists who like to enjoy the nature in peace , but now most of them have moved to other places because of harassment by local tourists. The sexually frustrated Punjab Haryana (and perhaps others too) crowd do their best to make everyone else as miserable as possible in every way possible. A local business owner told us a story about how a bunch of Punjabis were harassing some Israeli women and then ran away after a beating.
5) Kasol these days is a lot like a smaller version of New Manali. Crowded, ugly, unplanned construction, no care about natural beauty of place and full of annoying, obnoxious people. Few days back people were outraging about a cafe not allowing local Indians to enter their premises. Now I know that the cafe management was absolutely justified.

 

There was a really long break between the last post of this travelogue and this one due to a number of reasons including work and other stuff. Anyhow, now I have some time and inclination to write down the travelogue again. Last post here.

As we were packing up and heating poha packets for breakfast, 2 officials from Himachal forest department walked in and started chatting. They warned us against camping near the lake but were polite about it. Provided us with some information about the place, chatted a bit and let us off with instructions on what to do in places like that. Pradhan (the head shepherd I have mentioned previously) was there and started complaining how the excess of camping was destroying the vegetation, adversely affecting animals and making the place filthy. He was absolutely right, to be honest. One of the reasons, I didn’t want to camp in campsite was the noise which the idiot tourists make all night long. One night, there was a group of 7-8 people who kept on playing highly retarded Bhojpuri, Punjabi songs all night after getting drunk. Another night, there was a group of some Punjabi retards who after getting drunk kept on beating an old drum and trying to sing (scream) along the annoying noise. Nobody seems to care that the place is a protected wilderness area and making noise like that, specially after dark, littering and their retarded way of celebrating a day out is highly stupid. One of the Punjabi NRIs who stayed in the campsite was dumb enough to demand chicken by whining ,” Appa ithey aaloo khaan waaste aaye hain ” ? (Are we here to eat potatoes ?)

Dumbass is in a campsite in a wilderness, 12 hours drive from Manali and at least 7 hours from Kaza, nearest towns which can have chicken and feels like he is entitled to it which isn’t really that popular food in the area just because he and his equally stupid loutish friends drove from pind Punjab to remote Spiti. It’s a small mercy that idiots like him don’t stay for more than one day. To make it better, most of people in that group were without any winter clothing.
Anyhow, as we started our walk back to campsite we saw a number of new tourists on the way.On the way, wifey got a lift in a car going back while me and ACB took a goat trail which led to nowhere, We had to slide down the slate rocks for a good 100 meters before we found a proper solid ground to walk upon. Reaching back, me and wifey decided to move on further towards Kaza next day while ACB decided to go back to Manali. The rest of day wasn’t particularly remarkable as I spent most of my time napping and walking around the Chandrabhaga river bank while wifey and ACB chatted with other guests.

Farms, Spiti river and the majestic mountains in Losar village

Farms, Spiti river and the majestic mountains in Losar village

The French girls were taking a bus to Kullu airport and from there a flight to Delhi. ACB was offered lift in car of one of the guests. Our plan was to stay for one or two nights in Losar, in Dorjee’s homestay before deciding upon what to do next. So ACB left the camp at 8 am while we got in to another car with Jamaica and French girls till Batal 2-3 hours later. There we found ACB waiting impatiently for the bus. Due to some miscommunication he had stayed in Batal while the others drove away to Manali. He could just find a spot to stand in the bus while I helped him tie his luggage on the rooftop. I don’t think that it was a very comfortable journey for him.

Our bus arrived soon after and I had to get on top of bus again to tie our own rucksacks. The bus was already full, but there was some space to stand atleast. The ride up the mountain towards Kunzum La is very slow and quite treacherous. On the way, there was an earth mover coming from opposite direction on a very narrow stretch. It was impossible for bus to go back from there, so the earth mover driver tried to turn back. All he succeded in doing was to almost roll down the slope to river atleast 300 meters below. At one time, only 2 of his 4 tires were on ground while other 2 were in air. Bus passengers actually started filming the whole thing. Thankfully, earth mover driver managed to get it back on the road and then drove back in reverse.

The only child who stayed still long enough for me to click a photo in Kyamo

The only child who stayed still long enough for me to click a photo in Kyamo

Upon reaching Kunzum La, most of the passengers got off the bus to our pleasant surprise. The drive up Kunzum La was not very comfortable and the rest of drive was unlikely to be much better, One young man told us that they were going to lake for the local festival. Goddess Kunzum was kind to us again as we finally found space to sit. Drive to Losar was all downhill and Dorjee’s guest house was actually on the outer edge of village. After asking around, we finally found the right place and got down.  I had to climb up the bus’ roof again to get the rucksacks which were completely covered in dust. The road leading to village seemed to be freshly laid. Later on we came to know that it was some central govt project to improve connectivity. But the quality of work was really shoddy and work was done  for 1 km  only. After that, it was same old broken stone trail.
We found the guest house without any difficulty but it was locked. One local told us that the family (Dorjee’s wife and daughter) were in their fields and will be back in a few hours. As we had no other option, we decided to have some snacks and wait. I walked around the village to see if there was some shop, but found nothing. There were only 3 kids who entered the guest house’s compund and looked at us as if were aliens. I saw one man working on his house and he invited me to go to his peas field and eat them fresh. I thanked him for the offer and then he told me that they had sent someone on a bike to call Dorjee’s wife back. It was a really nice gesture from them as they did it without us asking for it.

Village landscape

Village landscape

The houses in village were mostly made of mud, stones and wood with some concrete usage. The flat roofs were used to store dry firewood. Spiti River flowed just across the road and the old metal bridge made sounds like a jet engine whenever a heavy vehicle passed over it.
As I was walking around aimlessly, Sonam (Dorjee’s wife) came by walking briskly and opened the door for us. We had a cup of chai, rested and then walked around the village. A small, clean community with a primary school, government dispensary and connected only by a small uneven road. There were a few guest houses, a small police post and a few shops about 1-2 Km up, but this part of village was separated by a mountain stream. Dorjee family had 3 daughters, 2 were with maternal family for holidays and 1 was staying at home helping her mother Sonam with farm work.
They had built the house as a guesthouse to rent out to tourists passing through the area. It was not very luxurious but ok. Bedroom was a room with pictures of Buddhist, Hindu deities, Dalai Lama and some herbs being dried. For sleeping, there were two mattresses and thick blankets on ground. The windows were thick and air-tight to prevent cold air from getting in. People in this area need to sleep with every room made airtight. We had to open up the windows a few cm at night because we felt suffocated.
Toilet on the other hand was just a small shed around a hole on the roof. The shit fell in to a room which acted as kind of a compost pit. Not something that we were expecting, but still better than digging a hole in hard ground and then covering it up.

Local children enjoying bicycle rides
It was bit more comfortable accommodation when compared to campsite and pretty much how local villagers live. There were a few signs of modern city life though. LPG was being used in kitchen instead of wood which was the norm not too long ago. Electricity supply was fairly good and most houses had dish tv.The main dining room was kept warm by wood, coal fire. Food was quite simple but good. Most of the time, it was wheat bread with locally grown vegetables like peas, onions, potatoes etc. Very fresh and tasted pretty good.
During dinner, Sonam told us about a small village Kyamo at the end of road at a distance of about 5 km, supposedly the last village in that direction.

We thought that it might be an interesting idea, visiting the last village at end of the road, even though it isn’t exactly as cool as something like last village on border or something like that. So next morning, me and wifey packed up some water, snacks and started walking on the road along Spiti river. It was a sunny day but the wind made it feel like a really cold one. There was not particularly remarkable once you get used to huge mountains and rocks all around. During our hike of 5 km, we saw only 3 people. A shepherd and his 2 children with their herd of cows and zebus who just looked at us curiously from a distance. There were a number of mountain streams mostly fed by still melting ice on the the mountains all around. After walking for about 1 hour, we finally reached the village which was more like a cluster of 15-18 houses and fields all around.Most of the people were busy working there. One woman was not as shy as others and walked up to see us from up close and exchange a few pleasantries. We filled up our water bottle from a stream which was originated from a snow bank a few 100 meters away from the village and rested for a while. A few kids came up to look at us but ran away whenever I pointed camera at them.

After a few minutes, we started walking back to Losar. On the outskirts, we met Sonam and her daughter who were working in their pea farm. Wifey went with the girl to see their peas while I wanted to explore a cave like structure half way up the mountain nearby. From a distance it looked like a nice place where snow or water could accumulate and I thought there could be some water there. The stones coming down from that place also reinforced this notion. So while wifey went on to the farm, I started climbing up the mountain. It wasn’t such an easy thing walking up the incline on a very rocky surface after a walk of about 11 km. In the end it was all for nothing as the place was completely dry. The place had a dried out pond over there but no sign of water. Any water which had accumulated there had flown out months back. So I climbed down and followed the women back to guest house. On the way, they gave me some fresh green peas to snack upon.

Interesting plant in such a dry place

Interesting plant in such a dry place

We were pretty tired by the time we reached back home and rested while watching some old Hindi movie on TV. Right then, a small mouse entered the room and started running around. The little girl and wifey jumped up and started screaming as it came towards them while Sonam remained a bit calmer. I chased it with a broom trying to shove it away out of house, but it scampered below the TV table which was covered by a table cloth and hid there. Finally I found it hiding inside a small cardboard box. I picked it up and dumped mouse outside the window. As I was getting amused by all the scared women drama, I walked towards them holding the box in hand and claimed that the mouse was still inside. All 3 shouted even louder and started running around in circles. And I laughed and laughed and laughed.

Good end to the day.

 

This was the last day of our trip and we started the drive back home at about 7 am. After a quick breakfast, we

A little bird making a nest

A little bird making a nest

started the drive back along the same road we had arrived. I tried to catch up on sleep, but the road was too bumpy. On the way, we stopped at Bhuira to visit the jam factory there. It’s is a small village 6-7 km from Rajgarh known for it’s fruit orchards and the jam factory mentioned. Wifey had visited the place during a school trip and  likes their products. Our fridge almost always has a few jams, chutneys and a few other items from this pace. I too wanted to visit the place to see if it could be a travel option for  tour itineraries.

In hindsight, it’d have been better if we had visited while we were staying in Rajgarh as we could have utilised the day better. Anyhow, we visited on a Sunday when the plant is closed but the lady on phone said that we were welcome to visit and pick up some stuff. Some construction workers were busy laying down new road when reached the factory. We were met by caretaker Ramkali who had answered our phone call. She was of great help answering our queries and showing us around. Day being Sunday, no other staff was there except the gardener. The plant was closed for some upgrades and renovation anyway. So even if we had visited on a weekday, we couldn’t have seen the process. But we got a fairly good idea of how things work from Ramkali.

premises

Factory premises

I had gone there without any idea about what to expect but it was pretty nice. The plant is constructed in the village and the area is very green and full of trees of various types. It’s not huge, just a hall where fruits are washed, processed and packed, cold storage unit an office in addition to a beautiful garden and a house. There are 30-35 women working in the plant who are all from nearby villages. According to Ramkali, working in the plant has helped them raise their standard of living and empowered them. A lot better than the “empowerment” Rahul Gandhi keeps talking about. All the products, jams, pickles, preserves etc. are made by hand in hall. There are a few machines for  steaming, cooking the fruits. The plant is eco-friendly as the water used to wash the fruits is recycled and used in the garden. Instead of fertilizer, they use compost. This stuff was in the factory garden, don’t know if the orchards they source fruits from follow the same practice or not.

Ramkali

Ramkali

We bought a bunch of jars at some discount and went on our way to reach Solan at about noon. Met rest of family and started driving towards Delhi. On the way, we first stopped in Ambala . There is one famous Mohan Bakery, a few minutes drive from the college where we stopped to pick some really good Swiss Rolls . Next stop for snacks was Sharma Chaat where we had Gol Gappas with 7 different flavours like guava, jasmine, heeng etc and some chaat.

In evening, we made another stop at Murthal, where we had some paranthas for dinner. I had heard a lot about the place, but never been there. Early on, there were only 1-2 dhabas, but now they are lined up by the dozens. I had an onion parantha served with copious amounts of fresh butter. 2 paranthas are usually enough to fill up a normal person. After meal, they got us some orange and cola flavoured toffees, the same kind we used to buy for 10-20 paisa apiece a very long time back. It’s hard to find them these days, but a shop in the premises was selling them and we bought some of those.

Some stuff we bought

Some stuff we bought

Rest of the journey was uneventful. Passed the same mess I had mentioned in 1st part of this series to reach back home at about 11 pm. The temperature at night in Delhi was higher than the day temperature of every place we stayed in Himachal. After being on road for 13+ hours,  it hardly mattered.

Last photo of the trip

Last photo of the trip

Early on, our plan was to visit the orchard early morning as the trees were supposed to be sprayed with insecticide. But due to nearly continuous drizzle, that was postponed and we decided to visit after 10 am. Needed the sleep anyway.

Road leading to orchard

Road leading to orchard

The orchard is about 25 minutes drive from their house, just beyond Kufri  in a very picturesque setting. There are a number of apple and pear trees in addition to some walnuts, plum and a few others. Most of the fruits including apple were very small and still about 3 months from getting ripe. Apple trees were covered with nets to protect them from hail. Additionally, they have a very interesting way of rearing bees. A small hole is made in to the wall of a spare room which is connected to a box. It also keeps the bees safe from weather and most predators. The owners need the bees for pollination and also benefit from harvesting honey.

Little Apples

Little Apples

As mentioned earlier, they were thinking of building a few log huts in the orchard. A small resort of log huts or tents when built here in between the trees will be a great attraction. The views of the valley are awesome, it’s sufficiently far away from the road so that there is no noise and the weather is cool. Their plan is to keep it as natural as possible with minimum construction, so it should be good. It should be a nice place to spend a few days in mountains or a rest stop whenever someone is visiting Shimla and places on the route.  We did a bit of brainstorming over this.

As we started to go back, it started raining heavily again. We drove for about 45-50 minutes through some very narrow streets with very high inclines to reach Shimla. The rain had stopped by the time we reached the city and the weather was cool enough to make us wear sweaters. We walked around the typical touristy places like the Mall Road and nearby market.

Inside the orchard

Inside the orchard

For the first time in my life, I visited a state tourism office (run by Himachal Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation) on Mall Road and asked for advice. The staff there was pretty helpful and advised us to visit Rajgarh, Haripur Dhar, Habban valley and a couple of other places on the way. It turned out later that some of the places like Habban valley are marked wrongly on the map and most people don’t even know about such a place. So please don’t trust the maps 100% and confirm with multiple sources. Wifey had first wanted to visit Kasaul, but as it is very near Kullu Manali area and we plan on visiting the place 2-3 months later, we agreed upon the plan suggested by tourism officials. We booked a room in a guest house run by HPTDC in Rajgarh for about Rs. 1000 from there.

Wild flower

Wild flower

Later, we walked around a bit in the market taking in the sights. As almost everyone has been to Shimla, there is not much to write about. I just don’t like the uncontrolled construction which has led to the hills being stripped of their green cover to be replaced by ugly buildings all over. Our walk was nice as it had rained only about a hour before and was still cloudy. Doing the same thing the day before in normal mid May weather would have been out of question.

While walking, I noticed a small shop selling old books and felt curious. The place was just covered in books of all genres, but with a majority from British times. Few of them were in good condition while the others had pages falling out or crumbling. I found one book written by an explorer in Tibet and asked it’s price. The shopkeeper answered with Rs 9000. Haha. Even with the antique value, he is charging just whatever comes to his mind as the books weren’t even restored at all. Just picked from trash and put on display on shelves and sometimes bins.

Rainbow on way to Shimla

Rainbow on way to Shimla

There was another similar shop but with lesser number of books a few meters ahead. Didn’t feel like buying stuff but still ended up buying an out of print edition on Indian Ordnance Corps for Rs 300. An excellent bargain considering the mint condition of book and contents.

If someone remembers this artwork installed there, the young man in front posed as model

After getting back, it was time for dinner and packing for next 3 days. The car we arranged for was scheduled to arrive at 6 am. So we packed everything hurriedly and went to sleep soon after.

Memeorial to Lt Gen Daulat Singh on Mall Road

Memeorial to Lt Gen Daulat Singh on Mall Road

 

Taking Shelter

Taking Shelter

Same boy in different attire 15 years later

Same boy in different attire 15 years later

This is the story of another trip to mountains with wifey. This one was not planned at all and I had no idea about the places we visited. Infact, I had not even heard of them before we reached there. Even after all this it was an enjoyable trip with interesting sights, people and places. On 12th morning, wifey told me that her parents were going to Shimla to visit family next morning and she wanted us to go too. We were supposed to go there for a long time

Jaabli rest stop

Jaabli rest stop

but had been unable to do so. As I had 4-5 days free without much work, I said yes. I haven’t been to Shimla since 2007 new year’s eve and wanted to see how the place has fared. While she packed, I worked to finish up some pending work. The process took much longer than expected and I got free only at 4:00 am in the morning. We had to leave at 6 am next morning, so I just lay in bed trying to get a hour of sleep but was unable to get any. Combined with a wedding I had enjoyed a bit too much last night, it was really nice to be very tired yet not being able to sleep. At 5 am, we started getting ready and tying up some loose ends which seemed aplenty.

We got in to the car at just before 7 am when the road was covered with school kids and their buses. Day was a bit hot and humid even then. I don’t like mornings and when you combine it with humidity, heat, noisy kids, traffic and general city ambiance, it’s almost a torture. The drive to our destination through Delhi gets worse when one reaches Majnoo ka Tila area and further. The area looks like a post-apocalyptic wasteland with ugly construction, dust, filth, chaotic traffic and general ugliness all around. The huge mountain of garbage near GT Karnal road with random fires all over the place just completes the life altering experience.  Rest of the journey was not as bad, but nothing to talk about till one reaches the mountains. There are some green fields on the way, but the way houses and factories are swallowing up land is depressing.

First rain drops

First rain drops

It remained hot and sunny till we reached Jaabli. By the time we reached there, weather started getting cool and cloudy and we took our first rest stop. Bought some barfi boxes for Shimla family and had something to eat there.
The journey was pleasant from that point as it started raining and weather was much cooler. Passed a few towns on the way with too much construction which is haphazard, looks dangerous and is destroying the soul of mountains.   Nothing remarkable happened during rest of the journey till the time we reached the house of our hosts, a 20-25 minutes drive from Shimla.
After exchanging greetings we had a late lunch. Their house has a great view of the hills all around, specially those of Kufri from the terrace. One of the floors of their house is empty and they were thinking of converting that in to a guest house.  The views of surrounding hills are great and the place is sufficiently distant from Shimla and major roads which are blocked with traffic very often. Almost everyone is driving a car these days and the roads are just not build for this kind of traffic.

Rainy Day

Rainy Day

They also own an orchard in Fagu and wanted to have some opinion on how to go about it. We visited that place next day, but that will be covered in next post.
There aren’t many pictures in this post as I took only 10-11 pictures that day.