Ever since I bought a camera, batteries have been an issue specially while traveling. A fully charged DSLR battery is enough for up to 1000 photos or more if used properly. But in places without electricity like when camping and cold weather, battery charge is an issue. I found out during my last trip to Lahaul Spiti that batteries lose their charge in cold weather much faster even when not in use and specially with long exposure shots. So I’ve been looking for a way to charging DSLR batteries while traveling without access to electric supply. There is some information on internet, but nothing really useful. Most people just prefer carrying 3-4 extra batteries or a complicated setup of wires and adapters for the purpose..

But I found 2 gadgets which make camera battery charging much easier with minimal amount of work and expense required. So there is no cutting, joining wires or similar work, just simple plug and play.

1) First is a portable solar panel easily available from a number of online retailers. I bought a 21 W capacity panel like this. These panels have 1 or 2 USB ports for output and weigh less than half a KG. Mine came with 4  carabiners and has 4 slots which makes it easy to just sling across the backpack or any surface. The USB slots are inside a pocket which is pretty handy of storing cables and charger or to keep them away from sun while charging. There are multiple type with different capacities and weight, but it’ll be preferable to get one with maximum wattage possible. It seems to be water resistant and strong. While hiking, it can be just attached to the rucksack and charge batteries while you walk. It will probably be useful on some DIY projects in home too.

2) 2nd is a DC input charger for the camera battery. Canon and Nikon DSLRs both have different batteries and will have different chargers. Mine is Nikon D7100 with EN-EL15 battery and I got EN-EL15 DC charger. Most Canon DSLRs will use LP-E8 batteries and these chargers will work LP-E8 DC charger. None of the chargers available are manufactured by camera companies themselves and the build quality is not great. Atleast the one I got is Chinese made and looks like one. But it’s working while it works. It has slots for two batteries as visible in picture below, but I’ve used only one till now. While charging the display shows a level and blue backlight. For some reason, it fluctuates while connected to solar panel and stable if connected to a phone charger, but charging seems fine either way.

These chargers use DC as their input supply unlike the normal chargers which use AC. If you have a normal phone charger or a power bank, these battery chargers will work with those too. If you’re willing to carry a high capacity power bank like these with you, you can use the setup to charge your batteries even at night. There are also some solar power banks available with an attached solar panel. But it’s another KG or so of additional weight with lower capacity.

Next step is just to plug the USB cable of charger in to the USB slot of panel and place it in sun. As I’m writing this, this setup charged my Nikon EN-EL15 battery from 60% to 100% in 150 minutes. But it took 3 hours yesterday to charge the battery from 20% to 62%.  So even with good amount of sunlight, there seem to be some fluctuations. It’s also a good charger for other gadgets like phones, tablets etc. My 4 years + old Samsung tablet gets fully charged in 70-80 minutes with this panel.

The pictures below is the charging setup in action. Taken by a phone camera in very bright sun , so not very clear but good enough for the purpose. The red LED inside pocket lights up whenever the panels are exposed to sun.

Solar charging for camera battery

Solar panel pocket

These are some pictures I took in Shillong Air Force Museum. There was a lot more other stuff, but this is all I’m going to upload for now and is also the more interesting of the lot.

30 mm Aden Gun -Shillong Indian Air Force Museum

30 mm Aden Gun


30mm GSH Gun - Shillong Indian Air Force Museum

30 mm GSH Gun


Artouste Engine III B -Shillong Indian Air Force Museum

Artouste Engine III B


Bombs, Rockets - Shillong Indian Air Force Museum

Bombs, Rockets


Chakor Pilotless Target Aircraft - Shillong Indian Air Force Museum

Chakor Pilotless Target Aircraft

De Havilland Canada DHC4 Caribou - Shillong Indian Air Force Museum

De Havilland Canada DHC4 Caribou


GSH 23 Cannon - Shillong Indian Air Force Museum

GSH 23 Cannon

Hawker Hunter fighter Engine cavity -Shillong Indian Air Force Museum

Hawker Hunter fighter Engine cavity


Hawker Hunter fighter - Shillong Indian Air Force Museum

Hawker Hunter fighter

Iskra Fighter Trainer, Air Force Museum Shillong

Iskra Fighter Trainer

Iskra Information Board - Shillong Indian Air Force Museum

Iskra Information Board

Mi-4 Helicopter - Shillong Indian Air Force Museum

Mi-4 Helicopter

Mi-4 Helicopter Tail Rotor- Shillong Indian Air Force Museum

Mi-4 Helicopter Tail Rotor

Mi-4 Information board - Shillong Indian Air Force Museum

Mi-4 Information board

Mig-21 Cockpit and Engine - Shillong Indian Air Force Museum

Mig-21 Cockpit and Engine

Mig-21 Information Board - Shillong Indian Air Force Museum

Mig-21 Information Board


Mig-21 cockpit - Shillong Indian Air Force Museum

Mig-21 cockpit

Missile Pylon and Bomb Rack - Shillong Indian Air Force Museum

Missile Pylon and Bomb Rack

Multiple Shackle Bomb Rack - Shillong Indian Air Force Museum

Multiple Shackle Bomb Rack

R-27 Air to Air Missile - Shillong Indian Air Force Museum

R-27 Air to Air Missile

SAM - Shillong Indian Air Force Museum


Scale models of air force planes - Shillong Indian Air Force Museum

Scale models of air force planes

Utpal Barbara Information Board- Shillong Indian Air Force Museum

Utpal Barbara Information Board

Utpal Barbara Information Board 2- Shillong Indian Air Force Museum

Utpal Barbara Information Board 2


Dinner was fried chicken, potatoes, daal with rice. After serving us dinner, the caretaker went to his home for the night. The closest inhabited house in the village was about 150 meters away and the village was pretty quiet and had only a few lights on. So it was a pretty nice, quiet place. A lot of stars became visible few minutes later and we spent quiet a bit of time listening to the sound of river, nocturnal insects  and doing a bit of star gazing.  The beds were not not great but we slept comfortably. We packed up or stuff and started the drive early. We had planned to visit a place call Rikynjai, which was supposed to be a drive of about 4 hours according to Google Map. We called the only hotel there and made reservations. It was quite a bit more expensive then what I am usually willing to pay for a hotel, but it was supposed to be for just 1-2 nights.

Bridge leading over the river, missing a lot of wooden planks.

Bridge leading over the river, missing a lot of wooden planks.

At that time, the location of the hotel on Google Maps was shown somewhere near a small town called Nongstoin (West Khasi Hills) and we made the journey accordingly. Nongstoin turned out to be a small crappy town but the worse part was that the Google Maps was wrong yet again. The actual location of our planned destination was near Shillong, about a 100 km away. Now as I check it, the location has been updated to the actual coordinates. But at that time, we felt pretty annoyed. We thought about spending the night in Nongstoin and then move on to Shillong and Cherrapunji. There were no hotels and the only state run guest house was big but wifey didn’t like it.  So we started looking for some other place to stay.
Saw it on a pear tree outside our room in Rombagre

Saw it on a pear tree outside our room in Rombagre

We made some calls to the tourist department and they told us about 1 hotel 30-35 km away, Someone from the hotel was nearby and he said that he could meet and take us there as the actual location of hotel was on top of a hill in a wooded area with just a trail going there, But he couldn’t meet us and we never saw the landmark he told us to watch for on the way. So we had no choice at the time except to reach Shillong for the night. We reached there and I was pretty annoyed at everyone. Atleast the hotel there had hot running water, electricity and other utilities which worked properly. Hotel didn’t have dinner ready, so we went out to have something to eat and see the city.
Waterfall near Nognstoin

Waterfall near Nognstoin

 Compared to humid  West Garo Hills area, Shillong was comparatively cooler. We walked around looking for a place to eat. I was looking for local cuisine, but majority pf the restaurants just had the usual Chinese, south-Indian, north-Indian kind of stuff. There were a few signboards for bars but all were closed down after imposition of prohibition. People in villages were brewing their own booze (something like a fruit wine called bicchhi) and drinking it clandestinely and I suppose alcohol was available in black market in cities too. After a bit of walk, we found a small Naga food joint. The menu was rather limited and consisted mostly of 3-4 fish, pork and vegetable dishes with rice in different combinations. Wifey didn’t eat anything there though. I also bought a bottle of Naga chilli pickle from there. Only way I can eat it is by pouring 3-4 drops of the brine/oil in a large plate of rice. Eating the actual chilli makes whole mouth go numb and ass on fire next morning. Anyone reading this is welcome to to taste it.
Rolling green hills on way to Shillong from Tura

Rolling green hills on way to Shillong from Tura

We spent another day there and but didn’t like the Shillong city that much. If anything, parts of it like Police Bazar looked more like Mumbai rather than a charming hill city. It’s expanding too much, hills are being dug out, trees vanishing and ugly concrete buildings and shacks popping up everywhere, Traffic is as bad as any other big city but the drivers there don’t overtake in a jam or slow traffic as impatient idiots in rest of India do. It’s mostly because the roads are only double laned and overtaking in jam is a sure way of making thee situation even worse. So people actually follow the rules and don’t make it worse. Unfortunately rest of India lacks this basic common sense.
One interesting thing about the traffic in Shillong is the local taxis. These are mostly small cars like Maruti-800, Zen, Alto type and ply inside city limits. Normally 5 adults can sit in such a car in an uncomfortable cramped way. But these taxis regularly carry 10-12 people. Even the drivers seat has a passenger sharing it and 2-3 on the other one. Back seat will have 4-7 passengers more. How more people don’t die in such an arrangement and cars don’t breakdown in middle of street will remain a mystery. They’re pretty cheap though. Rs 10 -30 (maybe) for most local journeys per person and Rs 100 if you want the whole for yourself. We paid 100 whenever we needed it. Only one taxi driver tried to charge more during our stay there.
Laitlum Canyons

Laitlum Canyons

Next day, we visited Laitlum Canyons, a few km outside Shillong city limits and an interesting place which reminded me of Silent Hill. Once we passed the parking, everything was covered in fog with visibility of 4-5 meters at best. The place was essentially just a grass covered hill with fog everywhere. A slight drizzle and strong wind could do nothing to increase visibility.  A paved path went downwards but we didn’t feel like taking it at the time with rain and low visibility. There are pictures on internet which show the place without any fog and mist, but we liked it better this way. Some locals were gathering grass and digging up earth to presumably to plant something.
On the way back there by a old wood and grass building which was the residence of a local king. Driver asked if we wanted to see it but we drove to the Air Force museum. It was a smaller museum than Goa’s Naval Aviation Museum with the usual Hunter, Mig-21 and some other planes like trainers, transports in one section. Other section had an old Mi-4 helicopter, SAM and scale models of various planes on display. The indoor section had some stuff about history of the place, wars, local war heroes and the usual bombs, missiles etc. But the most impressive thing was a fully armed Jaguar on display on the main road outside air force station.
Iskra Trainer, Air Force Museum Shillong

Iskra Trainer, Air Force Museum Shillong

 In evening, we were searching again for some place to eat and entered one Maniupri restaurant in top floor of an old house. It was owned and operated by an artist family. At that time, they had a very limited menu. So i asked for some salad and one more dish which looked like a yellow, dry barfi but was spicy and salty. The salad was mostly cabbage along with some other veggies, spices but had something really with a strong smell and flavour., so I asked them what was in it. They said it was dried fish. Normally wifey will always take 1-39 bites out of whatever vegetarian stuff I’m eating but luckily for her, that time she had not. Previous night, she had ordered a vegetarian chop-suey in a Chinese place. After a long wait, waiter brought the bowl with a a huge omelet on  top which she didn’t like at all. Perks of being a vegetarian in a non-vegetarian place. :)
Our next stop was Cherrapunji and we were most interested in visiting  living root bridges. We searched for hotels and in finalised one in Laitkynsew. Upon asking, they shared phone number of a local guide and reserved a room for us. We called the guide but wifey did most of the talking as I couldn’t understand much of what he said. He lived nearby hotel and we fixed up a meeting point on the way.
More in next post.
More in next post.

Meghalaya was a place me and wifey both wanted to visit since a long time. Not many people visit north-eastern India but it is quite a beautiful place and not as crowded or commercialised as rest of tourist destinations in India, though it is getting there, Our trip lasted for 9 days during last week of June and 1st week of July, during the peak monsoon season. It was significantly hotter than what we had expected, but worth it. As with most of our travel plans, the itinerary we followed was a lot different than the one we “planned”.
Our flight departed at around 5 am and we were out of Guwahati airport by 7:30 am. We met our driver there and started the long road drive towards Tura in West Garo Hills. We had booked a car for the duration of our trip. The driver was from Assam and had been only to Shillong, Cherrapunji side because according to him, nobody else visited anyplace else. He tried his best to get us to change our plans by saying that there are militants everywhere, it’s like Wrong Turn movie and so on. Being from Jammu, such kind of talk only annoys me and I just asked him to keep quiet and follow the plan which he did more or less. We stopped at one road side dhaba some where in Assam for a late breakfast. They had paranthas available and we ordered 3. But a single parantha there used more than 2 times the flour than we’re used to and we struggled to finish one each. They also served some mixed vegetable, which I don’t remember.

Meghalaya - Guesthouse dog

Little dog at the guesthouse

The drive was long and unremarkable apart from the fact that Meghalaya had a lot more greenery and general cleanliness than Assam. Now as I am writing this, Assam is reeling under floods. When one sees how the people have destroyed forest land, blocked off water channels and constructed over wetlands, it’s only obvious that the place will go under water like clockwork, but I digress. We took a comparatively long route of highway 127B and reached our guesthouse in Tura late afternoon. The guesthouse was nothing really fancy but adequate. After some rest, we took a walk but there wasn’t much to see. Lack of sleep previous night and long drive had tired us and we had an early dinner before going to sleep. Wifey is a vegetarian so she just asked for the usual daal, while the owner prepared a local fish dish for me.

Pelga Falls, Meghalaya

Pelga waterall

Next morning, we called the state tourism office and asked for some advice. They promised to arrange a local guide for us.
In the meanwhile, we asked the driver to take us to Pelga Falls. We were following Google Maps which proved to be entirely useless in showing directions and the driver was even more useless. In the end we ended up on a dirt track a few km outside the town that the locals claimed led to Pelga Falls. We could barely understand them and driver’s comprehension was hardly any better.
Me and wifey started walking but started sweating profusely very soon. The weather wasn’t that hot, but very humid. Most of the time, we were walking under shade of trees but that just protected from sunshine. There were a few small houses made of bamboo and cane every few meters on the way but very few people and no tourists. There were some auto-rickshaws plying on the route though. Most of the houses had goats, chicken and some pigs walking or lying around.

Bamboo bridge on Pelga falls

Bamboo bridge

We reached Pelga Falls after walking for 35-40 minutes and found a small bamboo cane bridge a few meters upstream. A few workers were doing some repair work on it.. The stream was flooded and the water made a lot of noise even though the height was only 16-17 feet. I went on the bridge to see what was on the other side but quickly had doubts about my decision. It shook under my weight and for most of middle part the hand rails were quite below my reach making it tough to hold the camera and walk at same time. Later on this bridge was just one of many such shaky bridges we crossed, but I hadn’t expected this so soon. Anyhow, workers on other side of bridge were busy installed a bamboo ladder and there was no way to climb down from there forcing me to come back.

Our accommodation in Rombagre

Our accommodation in Rombagre

We saw some children coming back from school and a few locals and all were pretty friendly and curious even though language was an issue. They could understand only a bit of Hindi and even less English and their pronunciation was quite hard to understand. While we were driving back, the officer from Meghalaya tourism called us to inform that they had arranged guides for us. They arranged to have them meet us in Tura while we had lunch. The guides were two young men probably still in college and could communicate only a bit better than the villagers. We decided to visit the tourism office to get a better idea anyway. The officer we were talking to on phone was really helpful but her information also got us to change our plans of visiting a wildlife sanctuary nearby and 2-3 other places we had shortlisted. She was a gazetted rank officer and it’s very rare to see government officials of her level being so courteous and helpful like her. We decided to plan our stay in West Garo Hills according to brochures, maps and other verbal information she gave us. She even called some hotels and people on our behalf.

Katta Beel Lake, Meghalaya

Katta Beel

We planned to visit Katta Beel lake which was marked as 70 km on the map same day and move on to some other place next day. The two guides joined us even though only one was needed as we were their first ever clients.
Interrupting the story here to say that DO NOT TRUST TOURIST MAPS OR GOOGLE MAPS, BROCHURES AND EVEN THE DIRECTIONS PROVIDED BY LOCALS. Everything is wrong. Brochures and tourist department people said 60 km, but it was atleast 20-25 km further away.
Most of the roads were in good condition apart from a few stretches every now and then. Surprisingly, there were a lot of wooden bridges which were being phased out with concrete and steel bridges, but it was surprising for us to see such old bridges. Along the way, we passed some villages and most people were dressed simply in local attire and at first glance looked still not that affected or changed by outer world. But one thing that I noticed that day and rest of our stay there was that there were a lot more churches than schools. Almost every village had one or more huge churches but fewer and smaller schools. Even the guesthouse we were staying in had a huge church right in front and a 6-7 room school next to it. There was a “big” college on the same street and even that seemed smaller than that church. Seemed to be one kind of religious and social backwardness replaced by one imposed by foreigners.

Snake fishing

Coming back to the topic, it took us more than three hours to reach Katta Beel, a small lake right next to India-Bangladesh border. Apparently it was dug up by a king in 7th or 9th century. It’s not a bad place, but not worth the long drive. While we were going back, a local asked us to go a bit further and visit some ancient fort and temple. The road went along the border and we entered the Bangladeshi territory for a few meters but couldn’t find the place. The sun was fading the the fence closing in 40-45 minutes so we chose to go back rather than search more.

Next morning, we left Tura with intention of stopping at Rombagre or Chandigre. Found Rombagre first which was a drive of around 90-100 minutes. There was also on Selbagre Gibbon reserve which we saw on the way, but didn’t really feel like going there as we wanted to confirm a place to spend the night firts. It’s a very small village with just a single inspection bungalow (IB) for accommodation. It was on other side of the river and only way to cross it was via a suspension bridge made of steel and wood. The steel structure looked sturdy enough but the quite a few planks for the walkway were either missing or cracked. The caretaker was not there and we asked locals who pointed us to his house. After 20-25 minutes, he came half running and unlocked a room for us. While we were waiting for him to arrive, I climbed up a pathway on a nearby hill to the village there. It was a pretty place with bamboo houses, huge trees, large courtyards and various pet animals. IB was on other side, just outside main village. Contrary to what we were expecting, the room had running water sourced from a small stream. The village had electricity but not the IB. But that was fine with us. After putting away our luggage, we drove 3-4 km further to a waterfall. A trail went on further but the caretaker said that the bridge broke a few weeks back and we couldn’t go there. We stopped at a small village where a NGO was operating a shelter for endangered gibbons and other primates.Apparently some jerks capture these primates and keep them as pets or sell off. This NGO rescues such animals before releasing them in to wild. Normally I don’t care for NGOs, but they seem to be doing good work in hard conditions.

Hoolock gibbon

Hoolock gibbon

On the way, there was a small market going on along the road and a platform constructed above a pool in river from where people can feed the fish. A snake was lying on rocks trying to catch something for lunch, but most fish seemed too big for it. After we reached back to Rombagre, care taker went off to cook dinner while we cooled off in the river. There were quite a few fishes there too and I fed them some of the snacks we were carrying, much to wifey’s annoyance. We watched some local kids playing football till it started getting dark and we walked back to our room for dinner. More in next post.

This is going to be a short entry about our trip to Kasol in first week of May 2016. I still haven’t finished writing two more travelogues, so thought of finishing up the shorter ones first.
This time we had wifey’s cousin and her husband for company. Lets call them SS and AM. After the last trip with one other cousin (ACB from Spiti trip), I was somewhat wary of traveling with other people who have no idea about how we like to travel. It’s also because the Spiti trip “scared” ACB so much that he has sworn off almost all trips with us which involve walking for more than 1 hour in a day. Can’t say that I blame him. But Kasol was supposed to be a place to relax and just wander around and the plans were made with all four of us going there for 4-5 days.

first day in Kasol

But as with our every other trip, almost all the logistics were left to last minute and we had to do some last minute calls to get a hotel. Since the trip was supposed to be a relaxing one, a comparatively better hotel was essential. The place I booked actually turned out to be so bad that I created a Tripadvisor account just to write a long review against it. More on that maybe later.
Anyhow the trip began with a bus ride till Kullu from where we took a taxi from near airport. The taxi drivers there did their best to convince us to take all 4 of us in a small Alto car because it was the turn of that taxi at the taxi-stand. We insisted and got a bigger Maruti van though after a bit of stubbornness. The ride to Kasol from Kullu was uneventful but bumpy for most part. We found our hotel Deep Forest (don’t go there, ever.) and hoped to get some rest and hot breakfast before making plans for the day. The 2 room cottage that I had booked for Rs 6000 per day turned out to be an absolute disaster and I have written a fairly long review on this Tripadvisor link. Whoever reads this must boycott this place.

Route to Graahan


After a cold shower and some barely edible breakfast, rest of the folks stayed in for some sleep, while I picked up my camera and went on a walk around the town. Spending 20-25 minutes there made me realise  that I was not going to like that place much. Lots of college kids or young people from nearby cities on a break kind of crowd were everywhere. Then there were pilgrims to Manikaran Gurudwara passing through who make a mess in the town quite often. I finished walking around most of the town in about 30-35 minutes and ended up back near the hotel. A trail started from there going upstream alongside river. Since there was nothing better to do, I started walking in that direction. The wooded area nearby had some people resting and talking and further up there was a small campsite and a stone hut. I went past it along the trail alongside river following 2-3 water pipes. They went on further till the trail ended. I actually went further up till they path ended and had to retrace my steps back to the hut. Another rocky path from there went up the hill so I took that. After spending so much time in concrete filled hot cities, any place with trees, running water and nature was a relief. So I kept walking on the trail. There were some people working on a small clearing near the river, probably planting vegetables but I didn’t go there to ask.

View from the trail

View from the trail

The path was nice with thick tree cover all over and a lots of birds, insects and spider webs. After climbing downhill on other side, the path was relatively flat and much easier to walk on. I had seen no body else on the trail till now apart from the people mentioned earlier, so when I came across the first person coming from other direction I asked him about where the path led to. He said Graahan which I misheard as Graan which is Dogri for village. I asked him again name of the place and got the same answer and him looking at me with a confused expression. I thanked him and moved on and found two men carrying some heavy load on their backs walking in same direction as myself. It was them that I understood that village itself is called Graahan and was about 2-3 hours walk away. Adjusting according to pahadi time, it meant about 3 hours and 30 minutes more for me. So visiting the place was not possible considering I had company. If I was alone like my some other trips, then I could’ve gone there, but not that time. The time was just a few minutes before noon and I thought of walking a bit further before heading back. There was a small wooden bridge further up ahead over shallow stream. I rested there and had a drink of cold water. There were a few goats just across the bridge and a shepherd dog sleeping. I found the shepherd and asked him about the duration of walk village ahead. He answered the same, 2-3 hours walk. The man I had met 45 minutes before had said the same thing. So much for asking directions from pahadi people.

Shephard lady

He then started asking me about how is AAP doing in Delhi ? I was taken aback and asked what he meant exactly. He answered that he is reading so much about the good work being done by AAP in newspapers and was curious about it. He looked quite surprised that the “articles” he was reading were ads not news and had a lightbulb moment. I had little desire to talk about that ass Kanjriwaal and his chandaal party and had a bit of small talk with him. For someone who spent most of his time in jungle, he seemed to be quite aware of things going around in the world, mostly by radio and newspapers, I think.

View from a bridge

There was no cellphone coverage and it stayed that way till the stone hut. I arrived back to the hotel at around 1 pm. Rest of people were awake and we decided to look for a new hotel and have lunch. AM had short listed a few restaurants from Tripadvisor and surprisingly they turned out to be quite good. We first visited a place called Jim Morrison Cafe and had a long leisurely lunch. Me and wifey love these kind of places where you sit on ground and service is slow. I told them about the trail and village up ahead and they seemed excited about it. It was decided that we’d walk to Graahan early next morning and come back by evening. We then walked around the town looking for a new hotel and finalised one right next to the one where we were staying. Actually the hotel we actually ended up with was finalised next day, but that’s not that important. Anyhow, to make long story short, we planned to leave early morning and come back by evening after hiking till Graahan, a total of 16 km.

This plant is used as cattle feed

This plant is used as cattle feed

But as happens in all my vacations, we woke up late, spent too much time on checking out and breakfast and started our hike at noon. I didn’t want to spend another minute in Kasol, so I was just thankful that we could manage to leave at last. The walk was supposed to be pretty uneventful. Altitude is not that high, 8 km is not such a long distance, scenery is nice and the participants not that old. But it turned out that I had not made myself amply clear. I realised too late that SS and Am had little idea about what trouble they had gotten themselves in to. They had probably expected a long leisurely walk through a wooded area but it was a quite a bit of challenge for them as they had very little experience. But they kept on walking without complaining. It was only after walking for about 3 hours that we had a discussion about going further up or going back, SS said that we should walk on further as we had already walked for so long and we could spend the night in some guest house there. I was only too happy to accept. There was a small issue about our luggage in the hotel and we had told them that we’d be back at night, but we decided to do something about that later. So we started walking with Graahan in mind. Going back to Kasol same day was out of question.

An old house in Graahan village

An old house in Graahan village


We met quite a few people from village as well as some foreign tourists walking on the route which was mostly just a trail going upstream along the river. SS and AM were quite tired after walking for 4 hours and we had to stop frequently. We stopped at one point from where we could see some house in the village at top of a mountain before making the final approach. That turned out to be the most tiring section but we managed to finish it and reached outskirts. We were still outside the village when owner of a guesthouse invited us to his place to check it out. Looking at how rest of the group was doing, I decided to check that out first and found it to be fairly good. Rest of the people soon joined up and chose to stay there rather than walk further up to main village. So we dropped our stuff, took off our shoes and asked for something to eat and drink. AM was pretty tired and started napping.

Children even here know fancy ways to pose for camera

Children even here know fancy ways to pose for camera

After some time, me and wifey took off to explore the village on our own. Unlike other places, it was pretty old fashioned with most houses made of wood and stone , narrow streets and poor cleanliness. A local dog took upon the duty of following us around and kept on getting in fights with other dogs. There wasn’t much to see in village at the time as it was getting pretty dark, so we headed back once it started drizzling. On the way, I noticed something glowing like a firefly , but went I went closer, it turned out to be some kind of brown scaly worm with an illuminated bottom. I had never seen anything like this and was pretty excited. Tried to take a few pictures but didn’t get any good ones due to rain and darkness. While coming back, we met uncle of the guesthouse’s owner who walked with us back to the guesthouse. We went to sleep soon after having dinner.

The glowing insect

The glowing insect

Next morning, AM decided to stay back and rest while me, wifey and SS walked up the trail leading to Sar Pass. We were told that there were a few waterfalls on the route. We found first one without much trouble and spent almost a hour there. Wifey and SS then wanted to go back but I dragged them along to the 2nd one. They reluctantly followed till the point we could hear the waterfall, but then sat down like stubborn mules refusing to go any further. I was told that I was free to do whatever I want while they sit down and chat which was fine by me. The next waterfall was even more impressive albeit a bit more difficult to reach. I went on further but getting to base or top of waterfall was almost impossible due to flow of water. The trail went on further ahead and looked quite challenging but we were not going any further. I reached back to the two women and we started walking back to the guest house. Before leaving in morning, we were trying to call our hotel but all of their phone numbers were wrong or not working. There was no cell phone coverage. So we had to use a WLL (wireless in local loop) phone from the guesthouse which had to be taken to a specific point uphill where it could catch some signals. But nothing worked. After lunch and some rest, all 4 of us walked to the village, found a cafe and had some tea and snacks. Initially, we had planned to stay in Graahan only for a few hours, but ended up liking it so much that we spent 2 nights there.

A friendly puppy

A friendly puppy

Next morning we started our walk back to Kasol same way we had come up. The walk was pretty uneventful apart from a large group of hikers (45-50 people) starting their journey towards the Sar Pass. Once at hotel, we found our luggage as it is and hotel owner pretty chill about it. There isn’t anything interesting to write about after this as it’s all the general touristy stuff of going to a bunch of restaurants and places. SS and AM visited Manikaran Gurudwara next day while me and wifey had a long lazy breakfast  before heading back to Delhi.

The second bigger waterfall

The second bigger waterfall

Just to end this post, few points about Kasol. These are not particularly nice about the place or the people who visit there:

1) Majority of local Indian tourists as well as pilgrims passing through are assholes of first order. They’ll litter, smoke, drink anywhere they want and never clean up after themselves. “Pilgrims” coming back from Manikaran gurdwara can be seen getting drunk on their way back in Kasol.
2) Most of people visit Kasol just to smoke pot and drugs are easily available. I don’t condemn or condone it in anyway, but almost every other person you make an eye contact for more than 1 second will try to sell you some drugs.
3) Local shopkeepers do their best to fleece tourists and everything is sold 10-40% above MRP. Supposedly because Kasol is a remote place even with a metaled road. Funnily, Graahan which doesn’t have any road, had the same prices.
4) Kasol was a destination for foreigners and laidback tourists who like to enjoy the nature in peace , but now most of them have moved to other places because of harassment by local tourists. The sexually frustrated Punjab Haryana (and perhaps others too) crowd do their best to make everyone else as miserable as possible in every way possible. A local business owner told us a story about how a bunch of Punjabis were harassing some Israeli women and then ran away after a beating.
5) Kasol these days is a lot like a smaller version of New Manali. Crowded, ugly, unplanned construction, no care about natural beauty of place and full of annoying, obnoxious people. Few days back people were outraging about a cafe not allowing local Indians to enter their premises. Now I know that the cafe management was absolutely justified.